Saturday, February 11, 2017

Dunedin to Christchurch

After a couple of days exploring Dunedin it came time to leave. Everybody had warned me about the hills to the north of Dunedin. There was also the exercise of finding out HOW to leave Dunedin. The motorway is the way everybody goes but that's not allowed on a bike. I sought info from brochures on Dunedin cycling info, people in bike shops (cyclists) as well as the people behind the desks in the info centre.  The result was I would leave via North Rd then Mt Cargill Rd. It seemed to come down to 1 of 2 routes and this route would be all bitumen and less steep. From the flat ground in town it heads in toward the end of a valley and then starts to climb the valley side. The good news is that it does it in the old fashioned way, not so steep and plenty of bends (for when cars were less powerful). The road is one of those "put the bike in 1st gear, put the brain in neutral, and pedal".  Not so steep that you can't keep riding, not like Findlayson Rd from Waihola to Taiere Mouth a few days ago.  Phew!
Dunedin from North Rd Climb

The other pleasant surprise was it was basically a single climb.  I think the touring cyclists pet hate is struggling up a hill then finding a corresponding down meaning you have to do the climb all over again. I sheltered from some drizzly weather at a farm gate tree near the top before the down on the other side to rejoin the highway (no longer motorway). Only a couple of km before a recommended turn off, again the "scenic coastal route". I must learn not to take those. It did precisely that up down up down, crossing the railway line as it did, and making you wish they had a rail trail. Was it scenic? It didn't really give you the vistas you expect to see on a scenic coastal route, then you're back on the highway anyway. I've met many cyclists here that have been very anti-highway, and I must admit that when traveling on the bus from Christchurch to Invercargill I too thought there was considerable scope for problems, with single lanes in each direction small shoulders in parts and a bus driver that used those shoulders regularly when traffic came the other direction. (Not to mention bridges with lengths measured in km where a vehicle couldn't pass you if there were on coming traffic). But having ridden from Invercargill to Dunedin, most of it on the highway, I can say i don't think it's a problem. Most of the truckies give a wide berth when they can, I continually watch my mirror and give them a wave before they pass as I see them moving away, the dairy drivers are even friendly - probably because of the many many Fontera trucks you see each day you're probably seeing each one 3 or 4 times, so they monitor your progress give a wave and some a little toot.
To anybody reading this that wants to ride here (or any highway really) have a mirror, a good mirror, that doesn't vibrate and is a little convex. I'd recommend a Mirracyle.   I was fortunate to find another a few weeks ago to replace the one broken by a (way too close) car in NT (Aus) on my last trip.
My first night out of Dunedin was Palmerston, then the next morning I (still having not learnt from my mistake, took advise from an anti-highway cyclist and) took the Trotters Gorge Rd from Palmerston to near Moeraki, again lots of hills, and not anything spectacular to see (unless you are into hills of Radiata Pine). Yes there were some nice rock walls for 500m near the Gorge, but worthy of the hills from Palmerston, no. If you want to see the gorge just do the few km in from the highway from the northern side.  The Moeraki Boulders provided a good break from riding before heading for my destination of Oamaru. I did do another more flat coastal detour from Maheno to Oamaru via Kakanui but arrived in Oamaru in time for lunch, so post-lunch continued to Glenavy - this is why I like to travel without accommodation pre-arranged - unfortunately with a strong head wind. I passed a truck stop/hotel and was tempted to stop and get out of the wind but the look of the buildings for $95 was enough to keep me going to Glenavy which turned out to be a very pleasant surprise, lovely little "motor park" for way less.
Not all signs apply to me (one for work)
Moeraki Boulders
  
where on earth IS

Just before Glenavy was probably the first of the narrow bridge crossings (Waitaki Bridge) that had concerned me when viewed from the bus, it all went very nicely as have all of them since, with trucks able to pass with no oncoming traffic or politely sitting behind you when they could see the bridge almost finished.
Continuing on the next day from Glenavy I found I was now pretty much in flat land, and how very welcome that was. The approach to Timaru had a few gentle rolling hills, a bit like you might have in the Yarra Valley back home, but no NZ class hills.
Although originally planning to stop at Timaru I decided to lunch at Timaru then go a little further, as I wanted to get to Christchurch before COB Friday. I had lost my sun cover off my cycle helmet the day before and found something - not equivalent, but would do - at a Christchurch based on-line supplier from whom I'd bought cycle clothing before. The grey and orange windcheater type top I wear in many pics from my 2007/8 trip and also this trip came from GroundEffect in Chch (great cycling gear) I liked my old sun cover with its big brim at the front, long tail at the back and mesh top to help stop bald-head-burn, this one will actually be better for bald-head-burn being solid material that sits on your head inside the helmet, but I'll miss the big tail and brim (my eyes are already telling me I should have been wearing sunnies since losing the brim). Stopping at Temuka left me in a good position to hit Rakaia the next day and do a shorter ride Rakaia to Christchurch Friday.
Staying at Rakaia would also mean my legs would be fresh in the morning for riding the Rakaia River Bridge, the longest of all these narrow bridges - where I might feel pressured to ride fast and ride my little legs off by any following traffic.
Little Salmon - Rakaia
Christchurch looks very different - mostly
  
Christchurch - some bits look the same

Today is day 2 in Christchurch, highlight for the day probably being talking at length to a local guy - about my age - who was standing over his bike on the bridge overlooking the work being done to reconstruct the performing arts centre. It was great to hear perspectives about the city and get to hear about what has been, is, and will be happening, discuss the many still standing but condemned buildings and the likes. Then lengthy visits to both the museum and the quake city display. (It's worth staying the full hour plus of personal interviews that most people only listen to for a few minutes)
Tomorrow it's hit the road again heading up highway 1 & 7 in the direction of Hanmer Springs, which will - in a few days - kick off my Kaikoura road closure bypass through Molesworth station.

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