Thursday, October 18, 2007

Ditching the bike for 3 weeks - Trekking Annapurna Circuit

My India Visa has now been issued, so I'm free to leave Kathmandu and head to India, but first to see a little bit of the country.
 
As I have for many years had dicky knees, I dont want to do anything too testing for them and ruin the rest of the bike trip so I've opted for Annapurna circuit.  It's about 3 weeks of trekking but everybody tells me its not that hard - and there are lots of "oldies" here doing it. 
 
So dont expect any updates or pictures in the next few weeks.
 
Bye for now - and a few more pics
 
Theres a couple of 2004 shots amonst the following.  The last time I was in Kathmandu I was stuck in a hotel for 5 days until I managed to book a flight to Bangkok - stuck in the hotel day and night because riots had occured following the killing of 12 Nepalise hostages in Iraq.   Buildings of businesses from the middle east were torched and youths set tyres alight on many street corners. 
 
 
Jeff
 
Weddings in every country  Weddings everywhere
 
Here you can just see the flames from burning tyres on a street corner we had just crossed - whilst heading out for a walk & morning tea.  2004  Last time I took a photo here (2004)the shutters on all the shops were closed and there were tyres burning on the street corner, and a day & night curfew was about to come into effect.  The same street 2007
 
The Office of Qatar Airlines, targeted by protesters the day before.  Many businesses with links to the Middle East were targetted, including Airlines, Media & Contract Labour companies.  2004 Last time I was here (2004) the building on the left was a burning/burnt shell of Qatar airlines.  Torched by demonstrators along with other middle eastern businesses.  This time I flew in on a Qatar flight.  see also Nepal photos in the China 2004 trip album.   The same building 2007

Durbar square  Durbar Square
 
 Holy men


Tuesday, October 16, 2007

Bandar Abbas - the other end of Iran

Well, I made it to Bandar Abbas in record time, five and a half days for the 600km.  (very sparsely populated area).   
 
Before I arrived I realised that the advice I got up north would be right.  Esfahan Very Beautiful,  Shiraz Very Beautiful, Bandar Abbas Very Hot.   Coming down to sea level and getting to the lowest latitude at the same time is not a good combination.
 
Oasis Paradise?  As you go south the palms become more prevalent - but only where they can find water.
 
Another bread stop and the locals gathered around - and strated messing around. Locals playing around.
 
 
camped above a village - last camp in Iran  Last camp in Iran
 
final destination in Iran - chalk up another one.  Last stop in Iran
 
The captain pleading for fuel  The ferry back from one of the Islands - the captain calls for Petrol (mere technicality)
 
Bandar Abbas airport - ready to leave - enroute to Kathmandu - but only booked through to Dubai as you can't make international bookings in iran tour agencies   Bandar Abbas Airport - ready to fly over Baluchistan and Pakistan (taking DFATs advice for the first time)
 
On goes the bike (phew)   The bike goes on board
 
Near central Kathmandu  next stop Nepal - Kathmandu - green and wet and overcast - even the first rain I've seen for months
It may be after midnight when I get to the hotel - but that's no reason to not go out and buy Daal Baht.   I'm gonna luv touring here!!!!   And Nepali food - I'm in heaven
 


Sunday, October 7, 2007

Shiraz, Iran and heading South to the Gulf

Well here I am feeling like I've just about finished Iran - it's funny how things are so relative. Shiraz to Bandar Abbas is 600km but that seems like nothing now.

I left Shiraz yesterday on my way south to Bandar Abbas and are currently in a really slow Net Cafe in Fasa.

I obtained a visa extension in Esfahan before I left there on the 26th of October but the Swiss rider I met the day before Esfahan wasn't so lucky. His took many more days because the border people had stamped his passport incorrectly when he entered the country. As a result I headed to Shiraz and left him there waiting for his passport to be returned (with extension).
 
The ride from Esfahan to Shiraz was much flatter than any of the previous Iran I'd covered, generally riding down a big dry valley with high mountains on either side. Very dry country with the only water being pumped from below - and in this area there wasn't even very much of that - longer distances between villages here.

---

Well, I just got thrown out of the cafe because they wanted to close (for lunch - during Ramadan!?). So now I'm continuing from an equally slow net cafe another day down the road in Darab.   As I arrived into Darab I had a 6 motorcycle escort cruising up the main street - as is often the case. 
 
Back on the road between Esfahan and Shiraz there is a succession of real tourist attractions - and it showed.  After being in towns where I was told they had never ever seen a tourist I was seeing busloads.  The area around Shiraz has a
history dating back thousands of years and they have World Heritage listing on some of the places, an international airport and tourists.  So then I became the subject of not only the local Irani photographers but now the international tourists too. (most of the time the attention is good - but sometimes it really does get too much - once again - roll on India - it'll be much worse there)
 
The day I was leaving Shiraz I found the main street blocked off to traffic and police everywhere.  I hung around to find it was an anti Israel (and USA) march.   Very well organised - but then if you have a large government organised march you can expect that.
 
The road from Shiraz out towards Bandar Abbas is very similar to that north of Shiraz, the road mainly flattish but with steep rugged mountains on both sides.  The people are still as friendly as ever with offers to take you back to their place common - but usually when you really want to push on.    In fact this update is taking way too long and I am now having to be rude to get rid of people.
 
Here's a sample of a few pics from Esfahan down to Shiraz and beyond.
 
Shahreza (Qomshe)Mosque - Note the war graves in the foreground, from the Iran-Iraq war. - When Saddam Hussein was the USA's best friend.  Mosque at Shahreza (Qomshe)
 
Ezadkhast, ancient town - entry to the hilltop area - very reminiscent of Monty Python and the Holy Grail.  (acces is by climbing to the left - because the door is locked.  (the locals do it in their plastic slip on sandels)  A 1500 yr old village in ruins that isn't a tourist attraction.
 
A typical road shot for this stretch - yep hundreds of kilometres of it.   But usually a village after about 40km.  A road scene Esfahan to Shiraz
 
Pasargard - World Heritage Site - dating back to the hundreds BC  World Heritage Listed Pasargard
 
For a few days the wind was kind in the morning but blew up a head-on Gale from about 11am.  Here I am leaving Saadat Shar and looking for a camp site - trying to get to the hills in the hope of a wind shadow.  -  It was so fierce that I had to stop when gusts or dust like this went through - and the rest of the time ride with my eyes closed.  Not pleasant riding this afternoon - I was desperately seeking shelter from the wind (head on naturally)
 
Dinner with my hosts.   (The women ate with the men tonight...)   (although the wife refrained from taking anything until everybody else had eaten - and taken seconds if they wanted it.)  (L to R Host, wife, sister, and Son)   (I should have asked why the son was not married - everybody asks me...)  I saw shelter in the form of an orchard but they made me set up next to the house and eat with them.  
In Iran tourists are VERY rare.  Hence we are usually the subject of photos by the locals - instead of the reverse.  No locals have digital cameras, only film cameras, but just about everybody has a mobile phone and they use the inbuilt cameras to great effect - for stills and very very often, movies.  Everyone here has mobiles with cameras.
Persepolis (Old Persian: 'Pars', New Persian: تخت جمشید, 'Takht-e Jamshid') was an ancient ceremonial capital of the second Iranian dynasty, the Achaemenid Empire. To the ancient Persians, the city was known as Parsa, meaning the city of Persians, Persepolis being the Greek interpretation of the name (Περσες (meaning Persian)+ πόλις (meaning city)). In contemporary Iran the site is known as Takht-e Jamshid (Throne of Jamshid). (thanks wikipedia)  Persepolis ancient capital of the empire
 
Persepolis - ancient capital of the empire.   Persepolis ancient capital of the empire
 
Alfred does a horse impersonation.  -  Ed.  The last ever photo of Alfred.  He vanished when I went into a shop that afternoon.   It is sad to have lost him after covering 11,500 km with his little head poking out from the left rear pannier.   He must have met a nice local who promised him no more dust storms (he has no eye-lids).  Alfred impersonating a horse - His very last photo (see caption)
 
That evening camped under the gums I discovered Alfred gone, his lanyard neatly wrapped around a pannier strap testifying the new owner is at least neat.   The gums were in a corn canning factory - only the fence gives away that I am in Iran.  camped under the gums, but the colours of the fence give it away
 
Darvazeh-e Qoran  Entering Shiraz
Into town looking for a hotel.  Street scene Shiraz
 
Outside the citadel, Shiraz  The Citadel Shiraz.
 
The girls walk down one side of the boulevard and the boys down the other side - separated by the median strip.  Down with Israel march - Shiraz - Friday 5-Oct-2007
 
--- And en-route to Bandar Abbas ---
 
Salt at Lake Maharlu  Salt on Lake Maharlu
 
The launching ramp from the other side - looks just like itr should be South Australia  could be Aus except it's a bit big.